Five signs your phone battery is finished
Batteries fail gradually, then all at once. Here is what the slow part looks like.
Consoles run hot, sit in dusty cabinets and get their ports yanked by cables people trip over. Nearly every failure we see follows from one of those three things.
The HDMI port is the single most common console repair, and the most commonly misdiagnosed. A console with a damaged port shows no picture at all, or a picture that cuts out when the cable is nudged, and it happens because the port is soldered to the board and takes the full force of anything that catches the cable. Replacing it is a board-level job with a hot air station and a microscope — it is not a part you can plug in — but it is a fraction of the price of a new console.
Overheating is the other big one. A console pulls air through a filter that nobody ever cleans, and once the airflow drops the fan compensates by getting louder until the system shuts itself down mid-game. A full strip, clean and repaste restores it, and on a PS5 or Series X it is worth doing every couple of years whether or not it is complaining.
Controller stick drift deserves its own mention because it is so common and so cheap to fix. The potentiometers inside the analogue stick modules wear down, the controller reads movement that is not there, and your character wanders off. Replacing the module is a same-day job and costs far less than a new controller.
Quoted before we start · Diagnostic free
| Repair | Typical turnaround | From |
|---|---|---|
| HDMI port replacement (PS5 / Xbox) | 2–3 days | from $119 |
| HDMI port replacement (PS4 / Xbox One) | 2–3 days | from $99 |
| Overheating strip, clean and repaste | 1–2 days | from $79 |
| Disc drive repair or replacement | 2–4 days | from $99 |
| Power supply replacement | 2–3 days | from $89 |
| Switch charging port replacement | 1–2 days | from $79 |
| Controller stick drift repair | Same day | from $49 |
| Diagnostic | 24 hours | Free |
Prices start from the figures shown and depend on the model and the part fitted. You always get a fixed quote before any work begins, and the diagnostic is free whether or not you go ahead.
Try a different cable and a different HDMI input first — that rules out the two cheapest causes. If a known-good cable in a known-good input still gives no signal, and the console is otherwise powering up normally, the port is the likely fault. Bring it in and we will confirm it for free.
No. We do not touch the internal storage on any console repair. Your saves, profiles and installed games are exactly where you left them.
For an HDMI port, a fan clean or a disc drive, almost always — those repairs run well under a third of the price of a new machine. Where a console has a failed main processor we will tell you it is not worth it rather than take your money.
We replace the stick module rather than cleaning it, which is why the repair lasts. Cleaning buys weeks; a new module behaves like a new controller and carries the same 180-day warranty.
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Tell us the device and what it is doing. We will confirm the fault for free and give you a fixed price before anything is opened.
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